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Old August 15th, 2010, 08:53 AM   #71
Jism Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenna Talia View Post
Is it necessary to compress (rar/zip with parity recovery as maybe an option) when you backup ?
...........

something to do with interleaving...thoughts ?
No, interleaving has nothing to do with it.
Compressing video files when doing a backup is a waste of time and possibly a risk.
However, using parity files (make them with Quickpar) is in fact a good idea. Although I must admit I've never done it myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porsche_fan View Post
However, TY and Verbatim have also had their issues. Specifically Verbatim’s that were manufactured in India
Those were probably not made by Mitsubishi (Verbatim). That's the problem with recordable cd's and dvd's, In most cases the brand name says nothing about who produced it. Except for the 'official' Verbatim discs.
The only unreal Verbatims I have ever come across were sold in a completely different box. They were made by TY.

I too recommend visiting cdfreaks.com for good info about the manufacturers of optical discs.
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Feel free to post my scans to the relevant model threads, but do give credit
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Old August 16th, 2010, 06:08 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Dario Rosselini View Post
Those were probably not made by Mitsubishi (Verbatim). That's the problem with recordable cd's and dvd's, In most cases the brand name says nothing about who produced it. Except for the 'official' Verbatim discs.
The only unreal Verbatims I have ever come across were sold in a completely different box. They were made by TY.
As you indicated Verbatim has started outsourcing manufacturing. A lot of the manufactures do so. For example, TDK in the past had contracted out manufacturing to CMC which used I believe Verbatim’s pink Azo dye. Currently TDK is using Ritek to manufacture their product at least for DL and it isn’t very good.

What I am referring to is a known problem in a Verbatim outsourced plant in India where the quality control wasn’t up to Verbatim’s usual standard. If you look at the label in small print it says were the discs were made. Verbatim tech support instructed me to avoid the made in India discs in favor of the Singapore disc…that was a year ago so maybe the issue has been resolved.

Btw it is a well known issue on the net as well. Here is someone’s rather comical take on exactly who makes different Verbatim media based on country.

Additionally, there is also fake TY & Verbatim out there because the stuff is so darn expensive. So buyer beware on the net.

Last edited by Porsche_fan; August 17th, 2010 at 06:31 AM..
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Old November 6th, 2011, 03:28 AM   #73
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My suggestion would be online storage if you have a lot to backup, the patience to do it, the upload speed, and the money to buy it. Close to 3TB on a lifetime membership on Megaupload - archived into rar's with 10% recovery volumes. Though if MU goes bankrupt it's all for nothing...
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Old September 7th, 2012, 03:21 PM   #74
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A lot has been said about quality and brand name blanks. Check the source. Top brands are the most profitable to fake. I have bought several bargain batches on ebay and they were all 20% failure rate just in the burn stage. PC World and Argos were all the real Mvcoy and without specialist software you will neve know the difference till it is too late. Fake Philips, fake Verbatim, fake TDK all unreadable with good stuff on them.
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Old September 7th, 2012, 03:59 PM   #75
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Genuine blanks can be indentified by the Media Code and a 'stamped' code in the transparent plastic near the center of the disc. In the last case you'll have to look really good and with a looking glass.

Quote:
read DVD structure [00]
08 02 00 00 A1 0F 02 00 00 03 00 00 00 26 05 3F .............&.?
00 00 00 00 00 00 07 59 55 44 45 4E 30 30 30 54 .......YUDEN000T
30 33 00 38 23 54 37 0B 02 5A 71 02 80 6F 0F 0F 03.8#T7..Zq..o..
http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia?dv...ch=YUDEN000T03
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Old September 7th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #76
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I Need Help. (medical and psychiatric) but in this particular case five dead hard drives. Four spin fine, the lights flash and sodall shows on the pc. I have done device manager etc. They are those usb caddies with their own power supplies and nothing registers.
Also, the treasure on one hard drive that needs to be posted here: the click of death. The material is so good I bought an identical hard drive and changed over the electronic module but no go. whir, pretty light, Click click click,
I did find a couple of things on the web but the language might as well have been Swahili for all I could comprehend
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Old September 7th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #77
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There are several methods. If a drive doesn't address, you could try to put it in a different enclosure or buy a HD docking-station.



About the drive which makes the clicking sound: I've read a tip which said putting it in the freezer for a few hours in a sealed plastic bag may help clearing the mechanism. Should it get the drive running again, make a copy asap.

BTW: in 20 years, I've had 3 drives* (2 ATA +1 SATA) crap out on me. 1 IBM (now Hitachi) and 2 Maxtors (now owned by Seagate) Fortunately, the IBM Deskstar (or rather Deathstar) was still under warranty, being in a new PowerMac.



*knock on wood
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Last edited by Xxphd; September 7th, 2012 at 06:35 PM.. Reason: oops make that THREE drives
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Old September 8th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #78
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Thanks for the thing on genuine blanks; I have two pocket microscopes. I have reached the stage where I will only buy from proper outlets so I already know they are genuine without needing to check. The title of the thread is Backup and why trust anything that might not be 100%. Lets be honest here, none of us are backing up a sod of data; we are all saving copies of women we cherish.
Why risk it? Pay a few pence more and get authentic blanks. Put them on the list of things that are suspicious if cheap, like brakeshoes and medicine.
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Old July 13th, 2018, 06:54 AM   #79
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Old thread I know.... But I didn't find a newer one, and knew this one existed.

I had a hard drive take a dive on me. Seagate Barracuda 4TB internal.

Had it hooked up in an external enclosure. Bought it new in December 2017.
It made a little noise every so often but nothing that made me worried enough to sound the alarm.

I bought it as a backup drive to free up space for a tracker free-leech at the beginning of the year. So it has some backed up files and lots of single copy files on it. Only had it filled up about halfway.

My first clue that something was amiss is that when I tried to copy files from one drive to another it would give me the "parameter is incorrect" warning. It would save material fresh off the net no problem, but from HD to HD was a no go.

Last night I tried copying a 2gb movie onto the drive and it wouldn't take it. Then my browser froze and then my computer froze. One hard reboot later and everything was fine except for the drive. Windows explorer took a long time to try and access it, and then it gave me the parameter incorrect warning. After that, subsequent tries gave the "drive inaccessible" notification.

Clicking on properties for the drive shows that there are zero bytes used and zero available.

I did fire up "mini partition tool wizard free edition" and it checked the drive/partition and it says there is one error. But it can't fix it. I can also explore the partition using the program and everything [at least the root structure/directories] looks to be there.

For grins and giggles I tried the free mini tool recovery program to see what it could save. It found about 1/3 of the partition in its normal state with file names and directories and about 1/3 was in RAW format and I think the last 1/3 is not showing in the recovery.

I'm debating on how to go about rescuing the data. I'm tossing around the idea of seeing if I can recover the partition table and save everything on the drive, or doing a recovery sans partition table.

I'm thinking if the partition software can see the partition and all of the files/file names I should be able to replace the table and I'll be good to go. I need to pay up for the unlocked version but that's a small price to pay for the data if it works.

The other weird thing is that the drive shows three partitions. One small one of 128mb or so. The partition and data that Windows can't access [about 1.7TB] and a third unallocated area that is the remainder of the drive.

I could swear I formatted the entire drive when I bought it. I did it in GPT.

Maybe I can copy the partition with the missing table to the unallocated section of the disc??

If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to move on to data recovery [gotta pay to unlock that too]

Either way I'm buying a new HD first, before I try either method. Partition recovery or data salvage: its going on a new drive.

This has pretty much soured me on Seagate. Yeah its under warranty, but I really don't want to send them a drive full of porn for a warranty claim.

I guess a 4TB drive for a hundred bucks is too good to be true. I think the next one is going to be a WD Black.

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Old July 13th, 2018, 07:19 AM   #80
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This is a big deal. Firstly, seagate can't be trusted...secondly, you may need to use rescue tools that you never knew existed, you will have to be brave in your attempt. if this is GPT, that indicates win10, ,

the unallocated partition may contain data...that can be rescued

https://www.minitool.com/partition-d...ata-on-it.html

https://www.minitool.com/data-recove...incorrect.html

This mintool thing sure is doing an upsell job,,,hmmm. in Linux, gparted is the equivalent...best part is, it can work for win10 by way of using it as a live USB/CD booter. (ie media boots and runs like an OS)

https://gparted.org/


here is the win10 forum, for future reference

https://www.tenforums.com/

there is the chkdsk /r command that scans the disk for errors and repairs sectors, this may render the disk as failed in smart, but that is ok, smart monitoring can be turned off in BIOS and the disk will mount as usual for you to get your data moved

if you boot into safe mode, can you get any additional functionality?

there is a bright side, if the drive was totally trashed, it wouldn't even mount in the first place. I had one of those on the bench last week, it was a seagate too..

I remember back in the 1990s, seagates were junk and western digital was trustworthy,,,that was over 20 years ago.
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