Model Kits that you remember

[73north]

How noticeable it is , if the mistake by Trumpeter is not spotted
- see above , how a great model has the missing struts .

The Model hull is now prepared with the 2 washers and bolts in position -
glued securely to the bottom of the hull , and the screws for the Display Stand Silver Pedestals have been tested and will fit in with ease and can be
assembled later , once the ship is finished
Progress on the Hull ; with Brass Photo-etch added ( made by Flyhawk )
with Alliance Modelworks Battleship Bollards fitted ( 2mm high ) -
note the kit plastic moulded on ' anchor chain ' is scraped off - ready for a real metal anchor chain ..and the kit hull is painted

[pierrelm]

Originally Posted by 73north

Progress on the Hull ; with Brass Photo-etch added ( made by Flyhawk )
...

Etched brass - something I sometimes struggle with! a couple of questions:
1. do you always attach it pre-painting, so you are gluing metal to plastic, not primer etc.?
2. how do you attach it - I use Loctite superglue but I too often end up with too much glue or the item not sticking properly - any tips?

[BustyWomenLovr]

Don't use the superglue right out of the bottle. Put a blob on a piece of card or plastic. Then dip a pointed toothpick into the blob and transfer that tiny amount to your PE part where you want it glued. There are also glue tips that have a channel grooved into them to use capillary action, these fit into your knife handle. (I use "The Glue Looper")

You may wish to take your PE fret and soak it in White Vinegar for a bit, this will remove any oils and slightly etch the brass giving it a bit of tooth for the glues. Some say slight sanding, but some parts are so tiny sanding mangles them.

And yes, glue to model, not to paint/primer.

[73north]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKqukvfjkSQ
Hi This is a useful video above that goes into the methods and glues -

Superglue (CA) will bond PE to PE and to styrene and resin.
The problem is that it gives very little wriggle time especially the thin variety.
The gel does bond slightly slower but it can be messy and clean up is very difficult.
I recommend PVA Glue as well ( Polyvinyl acetate ) as it will give plenty of time to position the PE accurately and any excess, squeezed out, plus the glue can be cleaned up with a damp brush as it is water based.
I tend to fix the PE with PVA or Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue, which I think is similar to PVA, and then I wick thin CA into and along the join. If you use the thin CA it will wick into the join by capillary action.
You will end up with the PE accurately and strongly fixed.
Works for me anyway

Another point. The PE will stick better if it is clean. I always clean the piece of etch before cutting it from the fret with a fibre glass pen and then try to handle it as little as possible to avoid getting greasy finger marks on it.

[BustyWomenLovr]

Great point 73north. I have one (not as fancy as this) Fibreglass scratch brush / pen. DIY hardware or auto parts shops, even Amazon.

[73north]

Finally making more progress , with my first ever wood deck in place
( excluding the small one that was fitted to HMS Cossack on the Bridge )
I am also not painting the ships hull ' black ' - as it will show up so little detail and instead have gone for Dark Grey - which the hull might have been anyway - as photos can be unreliable

I also forgot to say , I added specialist ' degaussing ' etch by Tamiya to the upper hull sides
which looks correct and above is correct for the model , thankfully Trumpeter didn't add that detail - as etch degaussing looks far nicer and more sharper -
next up ' Admiralty ModelWorks ' Deckhouses for the rear of the superstructure !

[73north]

Admiralty Model Works have primarily designed this Set to update the 1/350th Trumpeter HMS Repulse to the “as sunk” fit, with the correct deckhouses, post 1939 refit.

Utilizing the parts in the Update Set the HMS Repulse can be built to represent how she looked when she was sunk on December 10, 1941, with HMS Prince of Wales, then operating as Force Z.

In 1939 King George V and Queen Consort Elizabeth (Queen Mother) were to travel to Canada in HMS Repulse. The ship was refitted to take the Royal Family, but at the last minute it was deemed that the ship was too valuable as a fighting unit to be used merely as an armed Royal Yacht.

This Update set replaces the aft deckhouses with corrected parts for the time which reflects the structural changes done to the ship to house the Royal Couple.

[73north]

I had fun with imagevenue - not saving photos - and so I had only a small time
to type in text before the pictures go missing
anyway , just to explain to the sharp eyed , that if you look at the 2 aft vents
that are fitted on top of the aft shelter deck - they are moved and scratch-built further back into the superstructure - the reason for doing this is easily shown below on another model built by a different modeller ( for illustration purposes )



This shows that if this is not done , you can't fit the aft pom-pom mounting
properly due to the way it was modelled by Trumpeter ( a hidden flaw )

[73north]

My latest Ebay Model ( bought for £ 81 ) is HMS Hood 1/350 by Trumpeter
I also point out that if anyone buys this Model , you MUST insist on having postal protection added by the seller to the ships
Upper Hull and Lower Hull ( see Yellow arrow )
- especially the front and rear of the bow and stern - as Trumpeter adds zero protection , unlike the later 1/350 HMS Repulse
which has some rudimentary Poly Peanuts glued or fixed to the sides of the Kit Box in China - failure to notice this , or ask for this - and you run a big risk that the Kit Hull will be damaged on arrival - rant over

[73north]

Now - the Forward Superstructure