Windows 7 Not Genuine - Page 2

**CARLTON BROWN** · November 17th, 2017, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ontstroke

Most PC's will have a Windows OEM key on a sticker somewhere on them. You could try entering that in to reactivate your Windows.

I do have the OEM code. But at the moment it boots up every time without any issues. Not quite sure how you reactivate Windows when it shouldn't need this anyway. I still don't know what the problem was, but it seems that plenty of others have had the same thing and in the majority of cases, just showing the warning, then booting normally, with it not happening again. In my case, the system froze and on every fresh attempt until I restored the o/s to an earlier date.

I think there must be a flaw in the system as I was able to get some basic control, but I do have a few strategies to try in the event of this happening again.

befuddled · November 19th, 2017, 07:33 PM

Once the computer is activated, Windows stores the activation files on your computer. If those files become damaged or corrupted, this could cause the problem you had. You can backup these restore these, if you suspect they have been damaged. Naturally, you want to back them up before a problem. The activation files only work for the machine from which you copied them. So, they cannot be used to activate another machine.

I was going to post the instructions, but this post would be too long. So, I'm giving a link with instructions. (There are programs that will do this, but, I shy away from those because of security concerns.) Here is the link for how to backup and restore the activation files: http://blog.idrassi.com/2013/01/back...ctivation.html

These activation files are especially helpful if you made your own PC and at some point you need to reinstall the OS from scratch. You need only to install the OS and then copy the files to their proper locations and --voila-- your computer is activated without having to go through the normal activation process of entering the 25 digit key and going online to activate. You might need to reboot the machine for them to take effect.

The following does not address the activation issue, I throw it in because it is handy information. Besides the Windows restore feature and the manufacturer's total restore feature, one should have and learn to use imaging software to make a backup image of your machine, especially after a fresh install (or a just-bought PC). You have, then, a good, clean, virus-free image you can restore in a worse case scenario. Later on, as you install programs and add songs, shows, movies, etc, you can image the PC again to save all that.

I like either to partition my hard drive in two partitions or have 2 drives. One drive/partition is just the OS for the basic working system, and the other drive is for all my data. This way, in a worse case scenario, I can have a working system up and running in 15 minutes or so, rather than waiting a couple hours to restore 1 Terabyte or more of data. The drive/partition does not need to be very large, but should be large enough to hold the OS and all the applications you might load later. A 250 Gigabyte partition/drive has, for Windows 7, been more than adequate in my experience. Plus, a lot of people like to use a SSD (solid state drive) for the OS and a second, mechanical hard disk for everything else. You don't need to spend a fortune on SSD's, but they're getting pretty cheap these days, but are still a lot more than the old style spinning hard drive.

If nothing else, images are handy as data backups, and you should have at least 2 backups of all your data. Why? Because nothing is perfect. Backups can fail and the media can fail. Remember: Paranoia is your best friend when it comes to your data. So backup your data and, if it is personal or confidential data, encrypt it.

Whether you have a good working image (the manufacturer's, or your own, or both) you should still be sure to write down the activation number on the COA sticker, as this will come in handy if, someday, you need to or want to install windows from scratch from an install disc instead of using an image file. This key is not the key that is used by the manufacturer. The manufacturer's key is a special key used by them for installing and pre-activating a large number of computers. Should you know that key (you can find it a number of ways, such as with the magical jellybean program), it will not work if you install from disc. This is why you need the activation number on the COA. Plus, you can use that key to install Windows on another machine, should your original machine crash so hard you have to replace the motherboard and other components. You will, in effect, a different machine. Neither the manufacturer's image nor your personal image will work on this machine. (Well, you can do a bare metal install, but it can be complicated, and you still need the COA number.)

In any event, one should have imaging software. There are a number of great packages out there such as Paragon, Acronis and others. I like Terabyte Unlimited's software. It's rather techie but can do just about anything. I got it because one can backup Windows servers with it and it only costs about $60. Other makers (last I checked, which was 8 years ago), charge $300 or more for imaging software for servers. If you don't have servers, almost any imaging software will work.

I've run on quite a bit, but I hope this is helpful.

**CARLTON BROWN** · November 20th, 2017, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by befuddled

Once the computer is activated, Windows stores the activation files on your computer. Etc. I've run on quite a bit, but I hope this is helpful.

Some very handy suggestions and a useful link. Thanks for spending some time on this problem, much appreciated.

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November 19th, 2017, 07:33 PM	#12
befuddled Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Roaming the Cosmos in search of life-filled planets to consume. Posts: 170 Thanks: 608 Thanked 1,076 Times in 168 Posts	Once the computer is activated, Windows stores the activation files on your computer. If those files become damaged or corrupted, this could cause the problem you had. You can backup these restore these, if you suspect they have been damaged. Naturally, you want to back them up before a problem. The activation files only work for the machine from which you copied them. So, they cannot be used to activate another machine. I was going to post the instructions, but this post would be too long. So, I'm giving a link with instructions. (There are programs that will do this, but, I shy away from those because of security concerns.) Here is the link for how to backup and restore the activation files: http://blog.idrassi.com/2013/01/back...ctivation.html These activation files are especially helpful if you made your own PC and at some point you need to reinstall the OS from scratch. You need only to install the OS and then copy the files to their proper locations and --voila-- your computer is activated without having to go through the normal activation process of entering the 25 digit key and going online to activate. You might need to reboot the machine for them to take effect. The following does not address the activation issue, I throw it in because it is handy information. Besides the Windows restore feature and the manufacturer's total restore feature, one should have and learn to use imaging software to make a backup image of your machine, especially after a fresh install (or a just-bought PC). You have, then, a good, clean, virus-free image you can restore in a worse case scenario. Later on, as you install programs and add songs, shows, movies, etc, you can image the PC again to save all that. I like either to partition my hard drive in two partitions or have 2 drives. One drive/partition is just the OS for the basic working system, and the other drive is for all my data. This way, in a worse case scenario, I can have a working system up and running in 15 minutes or so, rather than waiting a couple hours to restore 1 Terabyte or more of data. The drive/partition does not need to be very large, but should be large enough to hold the OS and all the applications you might load later. A 250 Gigabyte partition/drive has, for Windows 7, been more than adequate in my experience. Plus, a lot of people like to use a SSD (solid state drive) for the OS and a second, mechanical hard disk for everything else. You don't need to spend a fortune on SSD's, but they're getting pretty cheap these days, but are still a lot more than the old style spinning hard drive. If nothing else, images are handy as data backups, and you should have at least 2 backups of all your data. Why? Because nothing is perfect. Backups can fail and the media can fail. Remember: Paranoia is your best friend when it comes to your data. So backup your data and, if it is personal or confidential data, encrypt it. Whether you have a good working image (the manufacturer's, or your own, or both) you should still be sure to write down the activation number on the COA sticker, as this will come in handy if, someday, you need to or want to install windows from scratch from an install disc instead of using an image file. This key is not the key that is used by the manufacturer. The manufacturer's key is a special key used by them for installing and pre-activating a large number of computers. Should you know that key (you can find it a number of ways, such as with the magical jellybean program), it will not work if you install from disc. This is why you need the activation number on the COA. Plus, you can use that key to install Windows on another machine, should your original machine crash so hard you have to replace the motherboard and other components. You will, in effect, a different machine. Neither the manufacturer's image nor your personal image will work on this machine. (Well, you can do a bare metal install, but it can be complicated, and you still need the COA number.) In any event, one should have imaging software. There are a number of great packages out there such as Paragon, Acronis and others. I like Terabyte Unlimited's software. It's rather techie but can do just about anything. I got it because one can backup Windows servers with it and it only costs about $60. Other makers (last I checked, which was 8 years ago), charge $300 or more for imaging software for servers. If you don't have servers, almost any imaging software will work. I've run on quite a bit, but I hope this is helpful.